Miami
Saturday December 16
At Cartegena airport, we got out of the taxi, checked luggage at the curb,
and used our advanced on-line boarding pass to walk directly to the gate,
where dozens of friends and lovers were saying good bye. We boarded
the plane, had a 1.5 hour flight, with an egg and steak breakfast, hot towels,
back rubs by the flight attendants, and a free movie," Chicago." Everyone
was relaxed and happy. What a wonderful day.
Now, the truth:
We left Club de Pesca at 6:15 a.m., arriving with three 50 pound bags and
two carry ons. With help of a porter, our bags were placed on the floor,
about 25 feet from the first inspection point. Then , we went into
the line, only to learn from other passengers that we needed an exit form
from one office, and a tax receipt from another ($44 each to leave). At
the tax office, we learned that the travel agent had incorrectly charged
us a tax. More than forty five minutes later, we returned to the tax
collector with a boarding pass and received a refund.
After 30 minutes or more standing, we passed an interview station where the
official asked about our trip, whether anyone had touched our luggage, and
our plans. He smelled our passport, asked John to take his hat off,
gazed at the luggage, and placed a tag around the luggage, the second tag,
because we had been asked in the waiting line to attach special red Avianca
tags to each bag. Leaving the interview station, we went to a luggage
inspection station where two of our three bags were open and half the contents
of each were removed. After ten or fifteen minutes at this point,
we went to the ticket agent, dragging the heavy luggage behind us for the
third time. No one helped until the last station. John had to
drag the luggage, then lift the three bags to the last inspection station.
The experience left John exhausted from the lifing, dragging, and keeping
track of papers and passports.
At the ticket counter, we spent 10 minutes while the agent punched buttons,
and persons behind her made log records of our bags before they were sent
away on a moving conveyor belt.
Our next stop was airport security with an x-ray check of all our carry-on
luggage. John had to turn on his computer, which itself was no problem,
but the turn off cycle required five minutes. While waiting there, agents
"felt us up" and ran a magnet device everywhere, including up tight in the
crotch. Hands went over every part of our bodies, except a few key
private spots, approaching these spots and stopping within a centimeter or
two of contact. Concluding the five or ten minutes there, we presented
our passports to an immigration agent, then sat down in the lounge. Prior
to boarding, we passed through another inspection, including an x ray review,
but no more hands.
In total, the inspection process and ticketing took about 90 minutes. About
one in ten passengers, including John, boarded with nerves tighter than a
parachute harness. These nerves showed in relationships with the attendants.
The conclusion was better. We had fine breakfasts, with morning wine
and plenty of water.
10-24.686N
075-32.656W
Docked
Marina Club de Pesca
Cartagena de Indias
Colombia
GPS Odometer 11,042
Thursday, December 14
Tomorrow, we leave a city of immense Christmas beauty, the most tasteful
and dynamically lighted we ever have seen. (This is a public project.
Public areas are decorated at city expense, and the city provides prizes
for various forms of lighting at private locations.)
This week, we commissioned a new b, and worked with Sven of Laboratorio Aleman
to figure out our auto pilot problem.
Back January 5. On January 6 and 7, we go to The Bull Fights.
Sunday, December 10
We have acted like urban tourists, visiting the old town, and having lunch
at both the Hotel Caribe and The Charleston Cartegena. Our goal in
going to these rather elegant and expensive hotels was to find the hotel
we visited in 1974 on our way back from Bolivia. Unfortunately, so
much has changed that we cannot be sure, but we are betting that The Caribe
was it. We also remember the powerful impression then made by The Museum
of the Inquisition, which recalls dramatically how cruel Christians can be
during extreme periods of history. The impression this year was not
nearly so powerful, because either it was a second visit or the museum's
display has been changed.
The Club de Pesca annual fishing tournament and yacht regatta was held
this week. We skipped the opening days, opting to join people only
on the final night, last night. Unfortunately, we hit the only night
of rain. It was a four-hour thunderstorm that wiped out all ceremonial
and entertainment aspects of the evening. Still, cruisers are flexible,
and we had good conversations while squeezed into the small covered facility.
Good meal too.
Friends on s/v Constance won the regatta. We did not know the fishermen,
but saw that two teenagers took home big prizes for big fish. One
was half again as tall as John.
A festival of films about black experience was held at the auditorium of
the San Felipe Fort. We took in a 12 year old film with Harry Belefonte
and John Travolta, an HBO effort loosely based on The Rodney King debacle.
Its goal was to portray a reversal of roles, with a white man discriminated
against by several blacks. We thought the film failed in its purpose.
Saturday, December 2
Initial impressions of Cartagena:
1. The finest marina we have visited.
2. Taxis are clean and often scented.
3. People are helpful and competent
4. The most important city in the history of The Caribbean
5. History beautifully preserved
6. Tight, close knit American cruising community
7. Lots to do, from baseball, football and museums, to bull fighting.
8. Competent service professionals to handle everything we need.
Pachamama is receiving a new coat of wax, and soon new Cetol on the
toe rails. Repair of the autopilot, changing engine oil, and
fixing and/or maintaining winches are on our to do list.
Baseball tonight with Susan Fox and Gary Kanzler (sv Pacifico) was fun,
but the first inning did not start until 9 p.m. This was the All Star
game with a preliminary derby (home run, center field to catcher throw,
catcher to second base throw), and a dance company. We lost it, and
came home at 9:30. Baseball is big here; we will see more for sure.