A SPECIAL EVENT
CARNAVAL
Four days, every year, millions in selected cities have fun. Their
towns shut down, their spirits soar, inhibitions are put aside.
The famous carnaval cities are Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, most of the island
of Trinidad, Venice, Italy, and New Orleans. (A most special carnaval
is in Oruro, Bolivia, where, years ago, our son Chico found himself leading
a comparsa.) Thousands of small towns do the same. And one town
near us, Barranquilla.
With the exceptions of Mardi Gras and Fantasy Fest in Key West, we are unaware
of any celebration comparable to Carnaval. The 500 Festival Parade,
The Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, The Rose Bowl and Orange Bowl parades,
Fourth of July parades, all are fun, in a sense. They are fun to watch.
Entertaining for a two to four hours. But they are not as fun
as a carnaval parade. They are relatively stilted. Spectators
buy seats to sit and watch. Participants ride floats, play instruments,
or walk down the streets. In contrast, Carnaval participants are massive
numbers of amateurs, perhaps 50,000 in Barranquilla, who work all year
to learn a dance routine and to prepare costumes, all personally financed,
at costs up to $1,000 each or more. They look terrific in their body
clothing, head dresses and make up. They act proud and precise. They
smile and cater to the crowds. They dance, play clowns, leap acrobatically,
usually moving together in comparsas that compete for prizes. At the
same time, spectators are themselves participants. They arrive at their
viewing stand seats with noise makers, rum, and free spirits. They
make friends with everyone around them. During pauses in the parade,
private bands in each viewing stand perform, keeping everyone moving, laughing,
caring. Barranquilla has a unique feature. Spectators purchase aerosol
cans of "spuma," a soap like substance that clings to the body, like a tough
and resilient bubble bath. Some people buy dozens of these, spraying
any nearby target, including the tall Gringo who was uncomfortable but accepting,
who wanted to feel the freedom, but who could not quite do it.
We made a late decision to go to Carnaval, thereby missing the first night,
and winding up at the worst hotel we have known. The second day, for
us, a Monday, we moved to El Hotel del Prado, which reminded us of the large
hotel on Mackinaw Island, or the old Hotel (now a casino) in French Lick.
We remained through Tuesday, seeing complete parades on Monday and
Tuesday, but without enough energy to see La Festival de Orchestas, except
on television. We also missed the Friday and Saturday evening private
parties at the hotel, and at other places around town.
El Tiempo, the newspaper from Bogota, printed color pictures of Barranquilla,
and of the Carnaval in Rio, planting a seed that might grow to a visit to
Rio this time next year.
By the way, John and Chichi were famous. We were interviewed by Channel
7, and we appeared about twenty second on the Tuesday evening special report.