09-19.426N
080-00.305W
Anchored
Near Mouth of Chagres River
Panama
Saturday, June 16
Arriving here moments ago at 1040, we again find peace as we did last November,
though on the way in our keel was barely six inches above some rocks, thanks
to John's slightly incorrect navigation.
Pachamama is for sale now, and every trip could be our last aboard, although
the most likely scenario is that we will take her back to Florida in December,
and live aboard there until she sells. Merely writing these words provokes
tears.
09-20.775N
079-54.592W
Anchored
The Flats, Colon Harbor, Panama
Thursday, June 14
The second to the last anchorage in San Blas was Chichime, also our first
anchorage on entering San Blas in November. Turned out, this was an
important place to be.
First, Chichi renewed an acquaintance with Sunaina, a young Australian woman
traveling a year throughout South America. They first met at Coco Bandero,
on the beach, when she arrived with a group of back packers. This friendship
led to a fine dinner and conversation. She was staying with a Kuna family
on Chichime, as were four Peace Corps Volunteers from El Salvador. The
Peace Corps experience, being profound in John's life, was a solid common
ground.
For reasons difficult to describe, these encounters led to intense discussions
between Chichi and John, and the probable termination of our sailing experience.
Doug and Linda aboard "Que Linda," made our visit to Portobelo enjoyable
and complete.
Here, we are shopping in markets and in The Free Zone, obtaining enough
food for the next two weeks. Chichi leaves the 23d, John the 28th.
09-35.279N
078-40.671W
Anchored
Eastern Hollandes
"The Swimming Pool Anchorage"
Tuesday, June 5
Chichi and I are having a tough time. The heat is bearing on us like
a giant press. While Chichi enjoys the water, swimming, and aerobic
water exercise, John is sitting with the little to do, and no books, he
having read every one on the boat, some twice. (At a beach gathering
last night, he expected to trade lots of books, but found that the other
people had read every book he brought, leaving no opportunities for trades.)
Sunday, mid afternoon, John started crying for no obvious reason, perhaps
best described as feelings presented by a child who says, "Dad, I want to
go home." Chichi saved the day by proposing a swim, which brought
us both back to reality, but both still with a desire to do something different
than we are doing. Snorkeling is interesting, but no replacement for
a good movie. We also decided to move, which gave us a sense of purpose,
but, on arrival here, we were disappointed with the anchorage because it
has none of the beauty and charm of The Coco Bandero. "The swimming
pool," is the most popular anchorage in San Blas, but for no natural reason,
except perhaps that over the years many cruisers have decided to stop here
and to gather on Barbecue Island for Monday drinks and finger food, and for
special days like Thanksgiving. We see eight other boats, and last
night we learned that one has been here six years. Such a commitment
to a single location is beyond our comprehension.
Today, we move to Chichime, which is the first location we visited in San
Blas on arrival last November.
South of Reality is here, but Allergy is not. We have good rapport
with Byron and Denise, and we hope to see them frequently along the way.
They, like us, return to the states in July for several special family
events including the 80th birthday of Denise' Mother. Allergy is single
handed by John, from Toronto, who also appears to be having a tough time
rafter three years. He describes continuous anxiety, somewhat offset
when he can follow another vessel. Katy, from Venezuela, is with him
now, but she is likely to return to Venezuela in July.
The Far Side
The first of two little known facts is that Coco Bandero was named for
actor Antonio "Coco" Bandero, who made famous the song, "Don't Cry for Me
Chichime."
South of Green Island, a small atoll with three trees was re-named "Chichidup"
in November, and a new method of demonstrating respect was instituted. Anyone
visiting Chichidup should first purchase a gallon of rum, them poor one
ounce into a small container. On arrival at Chichidup, the rum is to be
released onto the beech, assuring pleasure for the visitor. However,
for more long lasting effects, a permanent kind of aura or good luck, the
bottle of rum, and all its remaining content, is to be given to The Great
Deity Chichi, who provides a blessing in return. The Quechua Deity
Pachamama has assured that this method will work, and will assure a good
life.
09-30.619N
078-37.612W
Anchored
Coco Bandero Keys
Comarca de Kuna Yala
Panama
Friday, June 1
Adam and Eve were born here. They were seen romping in the sand,
running the circumference of the island to our north, in less than ten minutes.
Not a big island, but, still, a little bit of paradise.
This is the most idyllic, tranquil, beautiful location we have experienced
since The Exumas in The Bahamas. We can swim from the boat to the island,
and Chichi, at last, has been able to mount her hammock and relax for hours
in quiet rapture.
The snorkeling is superb, as proven yesterday when we met Denise and Byron
(South of Reality), and John and Katy (Allergy) to explore both a wreck and
a reef only five minutes from here.
At last, three fisherman brought us a large red snapper, big enough for
three meals and an outstanding soup. Of course, we also had a dumb
dumb. The other day we gave $5 to three fellows on a cayuco, on the
promise that they would return with fruit, bread and maybe meat. We
never saw them again. (This is common here. Cruisers become so
anxious for fresh produce, that we assume a bit more risk than normal.)