May 2005
 

May 29 to May 31
At Sea
Between Bahia del Espiritu Santo, Mexico, and San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Mexico


Sailors will appreciate this saga:

Great day at anchor, steak dinner.
Left next day
Went aground off Owen Island
Morris, a friendly American from a nearby fishing town, the only person around with a radio, comes out to help
We take out the third anchor, pull ourselves off, and carefully weave our way to deeper water
We are exhausted, and we anchor over night
Next day and night, we sail, arriving about 7 a.m., but
The passage through the reef is treacherous, and we live a thousand lives in ten minutes
We anchor, and wipe out.

19-22.132N
087-31.229W

Anchored
Behind Owen Island
Bahia del Espiritu Santo
Mexico

Saturday, May 28

The greatest challenge to sailors is to manage their health, well being and ability to perform,.  These were challenged for us during an overnight sail from Isla Mujeres.

To avoid north  setting currents, boats hug the coast by staying within a mile or less from land.  This strategy calls for constant attention because a slight error can put us on a reef or into a collision with the numerous small fishing and recreational boats that ply the area.;  (In one moment of inattention, Pachamama came within ten yards of a small wooden fishing boat, perhaps 10 feet.)  

Most of our sail was delightful.  We traveled less than a mile off hotel row in Cancun, close enough to see our friend, Fred Diez, sitting on his condo patio, reading.  For most of the day and early evening we had a pleasant time.  However, about half an hour after a night change of watch, probably about 1 a.m. Friday, we came too close to land, and saw our depth meter fall to six feet.  This caused rapid action, anxiety, and a stress that lived with us for the rest of this leg.  On arrival here, we were exhausted, with head and stomach pain, too much for our frail bodies.  Chichi handled the experience well, but John became emotional in a nostalgic way, a reflection of both his weariness and his appreciation and respect for the care he was getting from the first mate.  The emotion is hard to describe.  It is a powerful desire to cry, but without sadness; just a reaction to relieve tension.  This morning, after an afternoon rest and a good night's sleep, he is fine, and ready to go.  We probably will do the next leg to San Pedro, Belize, tomorrow and tomorrow night,  for arrival Monday morning.

This bay is almost devoid of life.  A small Mayan village three miles north is the only settlement.  It is called La Victoria. It is a fishing and agricultural community, self sufficient and proud.  We saw one of their boats last night.  Other than that, we have been alone, providing a joyous contentment with an unnamed apprehension attached.

Our closing week in Isla Mujeres was made complete by the arrival of Rosa Mari and Fred Diez.  Rosa Mari is Chichi's best friend.  We entertained them on Pachamama, then they entertained us at their fine condo in Cancun which included an evening meal and a folkloric ballet during dinner.  Though short and performed on a stage about the size of our living room, it was one of the finest dance presentations we have seen.

We stepped out of the real world momentarily to see Star Wars, Episode III.  This series has been part of our lives since the  beginning, around 1977.  We could not miss it on the big screen, the only way to see these sagas.  It gave us new respect for one of movie's greatest characters:  YODA who knows The Force, both sides.  Frank Oz deserves an Academy Award for this, the finest puppet ever displayed on screen.  Burr Tilstrom would have been so proud.  (Kukla, Fran and Ollie)

By seeing our friends in Cancun, we missed the departure of Eriu, Lynne and Gerry.  Last Saturday, Lynne, an award wining photographer with The Associated Press, gave a seminar on good photography, including a catalog of some of her best work.  One was the Pulitzer Prize winning photo of Hillary Clinton attempting a craft.  Her mouth is wide open in an honest expression of amazement.  (Around 1992).  Lynne and Gerry are heading for Florida for a six year hiatus from sailing.  She will resume work, and Gerry will seek new employment in the boating industry.  He was a ship captain in The Irish Navy, well trained and knowledgeable, an excellent resource for anyone in need.  After six years, they want to have a 46-foot boat, and sail again.

Gerry and many others, including Steve aboard Peregrin and John aboard Shamrock, responded quickly to an emergency call from Pachamama.  I had opened a sea cock incorrectly, the handle came off, and water flowed into the bilge.  Steve knew what to do, and all was well in about an hour.  Gerry was on the outside blocking the thru hull.

After that, we got to know these others a little better.  John lent us his copy of Freya Rauscher's guide to Mexico and Belize, from which we copied reliable way points for entry along the coast.  Steve and his wife Anik came aboard for drinks, with their two sons, Codi, 16, and Nathan 9.  They have sailed together about two years, their favorite spot being Guatemala's Rio Dulce, with numerous attendant side trips to ruins and volcanoes.  And these folks know how to do it:  They educate their kids along the way under a plan approved by The Vermont state board of education, and they live without refrigeration.  Their boating life is so simple that at anchor, they charge their batteries no more than once each week.  John gave Codi and Nathan a copy of Garrison Keillor's Pretty Good Joke Book.  This consumed them for several days.  On the morning cruisers' net, they read a joke every day.


21-14.751N
086-44.654W


Docked, Marina El Paraiso
Isla Mujeres
Mexico

Thursday, May 19


What do you get when you put an American with a Mexican?  

Answer:  smiles, cordiality and great hospitality.  Here is one of many examples:

The ticket agent at El Teatro Cancun directed us to a stairway to the restaurant.  On seeing us turn the wrong way, she hastened out of her office, through the back corridors, out the door, across the large entry way, and up the stairs, to explain our error, and to redirect us.  She then spent 30 minutes with us providing all kinds of advice, such as the best way to see Chichen itza.  

This area is first class.  Good beaches, people with smiles, plenty of good will, a nice marina, inexpensive;  services and events run on time, and the people dress with pride and dignity.  Isla Mujeres has won our hearts, as have our special activities.

The first special activity was the Cuban National Ballet at El Teatro Cancun.  At least three times we were torn from our seats by superb performances and a lively audience.  This was world class.  The next was our side trip by car to the Mayan ruins of Chichen itza, where our guide, Mario, gave us the story, as best he knows it.  Mario has done this over twenty years.  His knowledge and his twinkle made us feel right at home.  The bottom line, of course, is that no one knows where The Mayan came from or how/why they disappeared.  Looking at artifacts, archeologists have made great assumptions about the designs and purposes of various buildings, and about the religious and political practices of the people.  All of these are educated guesses.  Who knows for sure whether the Tultecs took over, whether priests ran the show, whether young virgins were sacrificed.  All we can do is guess, while admiring the work these amazing people accomplished.

Back on Isla Mujeres, we have had profound luck.  During the trip from Clearwater, our second anchor slipped out its entire length of more than 200 feet.  John decided that retrieval was too risky, and he cut it off, leaving us with only the primary anchor.  So, John gets on the radio every morning to ask for the parts and elements he needs, such as shackles and nylon rode.  Meanwhile, he walks from the marina, and sees a barrel of chain resting quietly near a tree.  You can guess the rest.  Everything we need to replace the anchor is right here.  Steve aboard Peregrin has the rode, the correct anchor, and the shackles, and the captain of a fishing boat sold us 50 feet of the chain, all at good and fair prices.  If we purchased an anchor in The U.S., it would  be about $400, but over $900 in Mexico after shipping and taxes.  Through pure luck, we saved over a $1,000, while giving good value to the sellers who did not need the items.  Are we lucky, or what?

Star Wars opened today in both the U.S. and Cancun.  Of course, we will see it soon.  Meanwhile, The Pacers need to beat Detroit tonight, in Detroit, or call it a day--possibly Reggie Millers's last game.  We love our country, and our town.

Next week, Fred and Rosa Mari Diez (from Indianapolis, and Mexico) will visit us after they arrive at their Condo.  Then, we will wait for a weather window south to San Pedro cut at Ambergris Cay, just north of Belize City.  From there, we will move south in a leisurely way, with respect for the weather, as the first hurricane of the season moves west across Honduras and into the Caribbean, this weekend.

Anchored
Isla Mujeres
State of Quintana Roo
Mexico

Saturday, May 7
(Mini Marathon Day in Indianapolis)

The magic of change, from pessimism to optimism, from  health challenges to contentment, facilitated our departure to Mexico, a trip we could only imagine two weeks prior.

By the weekend of April 10, Chichi clearly was on the upswing from her last bout of Meniere's disease, and we started to work like beavers running late.  Art Haddock arrived April 18 for a planned Thursday departure, accelerated to Wednesday by our professional weather service, The Caribbean Weather Center, operated  by Chris Parker.  Chris took us by the hand, gave us complete directions, where to turn and when.  Although the rhumb line from Clearwater to Isla Mujeres is about 215 degrees, Chris kept us out of negative currents by directing us just west of South, then South to a point maybe ten minutes south of Isla Mujeres, where we turned west northwest.  This exercise added about 50 nautical miles to the total trip, but allowed us to avoid the north setting Yucatan current that is known to be as high as 4 knots, or 75 percent of our forward speed. From the third day until arrival, we faced 20-25 knot winds from the southeast, not bad after the turn west, but a challenge  before the turn, when we took gallons of water over the bow beating against small white horses.  

Lynne and Gerry (s/v Eriu, see link on home page) gave us the best surprise.  They heard us on the VHF, and decided to greet us at the harbor entrance.  There is no greater joy than friends in an unfamiliar place.  In their 10-foot dink, they took us to anchor, barely 100 yards from their boat.  Next day, they escorted us through the bureaucracies of Mexico so that we could be officially enrolled as visitors to Mexico.

Art left yesterday, after consuming his share of Mexican Beer ("Sol"), touring Cancun, seeing a movie, enjoying the people and helping with a boat job or two.