November 2006
 

10-24.686N
075-32.656W

Anchored
Near Club Nautico
Cartagena, Colombia

GPS Odometer:  11,052 Nautical Miles

Sunday, November 26

Though predictable and inevitable, the stupor following a 27 hour overnight is heavy.  Perhaps for dehydration, we have headaches.  (Our water consumption is intentionally greater on the sea, but possibly still not enough.  The result of dehydration is lethargy and headache.)

Weather consultant Chris Parker told us to leave San Blas as soon as possible in anticipation of building trade winds off Colombia, potentially reaching 25-30 knots by Thursday.  Our weather was fine.  We had a 5-10 west wind behind us and a favorable current, over three knots setting east, that propelled us at over 9 knots from San Blas.  With that, a planned 30 hour trip became 27 hours.  Unfortunately, our auto pilot became erratic, operating in spurts.  We had to nurse her all night long instead of relaxing.

S/v Santeen (sp?), was 17 miles behind us, having left an hour later and from a different point in San Blas.  She had a potential problem with fuel consumption, apparently resolved by a new air filter.  She was using 2 1/2 gallons per hour instead of 3/4 of a gallon. At that rate, she could not make it here.  We powered back while her skipper, Walt, figured things out.  Our slower speed would have allowed us to rendezvous if necessary.  We hope to meet Walt and Pat in the next few days.



09-26.484N
078-35.211W

Anchored
Rio Diablo (Nargana/Corazon de Jesus)
Comarca de Kuna Yala (San Blas)
Republic of Panama

Friday, November 24

A well predicted and well understood weather system, a rare cold front that originated in The U.S. passed Panama Tuesday night and Wednesday, giving us torrential rains and 40 knot winds.  Our anchors held, but our anxieties went through the roof, as loud winds violently turned our wind generator and whistled through rigging.  The result has been that Chichi and I have been inside the boat, playing Gin Rummy and Solitaire, reading "Mexico" by James Michener, as well as "...And Ladies of The Club," by Helen Hooven Santmyer, until we are about to go nuts.  Life is calmer now, but we need to figure when to go to Cartagena, where a semi permanent low frequently stirs the pot.

Sadly, we are beginning to get reports, unconfirmed, that a Kuna village was inundated, and several persons killed, by this weather system.

A respite was Thanksgiving with Bob and Normal Morris aboard Happy Ours.  

Tuesday, November 21

(Between this commentary and the one for November 16, we visited Green Island, returning here to obtain greater protection from predicted bad weather.)



The Kuna Nation



Cruising guides repeat that The Kuna culture is the most well preserved of any indigenous culture in The Americas.  Our view is not so hopeful.

During our days here, dozens of pleasant Kuna people have visited our boat, most with young children in tow, and many using the appeal of children to encourage either a purchase or donation ("so that we can pay for our children's schooling.")
This must be relatively new for a people that survived hundreds if not thousands of years on subsistence, on bananas, coconuts and fish.  The hardest working are up before dawn  diving for fish or filling water jugs from rivers.  But at some time in the last fifty years they either learned or were taught that their native clothing is salable to tourists.  (Could this have been a Peace Corps project?)  The early tourists here were likely to have been cruisers because a cruising yacht is the easiest way to see the area. No roads or convenient public transportation is available. 

Today, Kuna women are seen throughout Panama selling their crafts, and their homes and huts always have a mola ready to display and to sell should a tourist walk by.  Meanwhile, the youth are learning Spanish, and some, on their own, English.  And others, unfortunately, have learned to beg, to touch the heart with a story of impoverishment.  From these few, we are not asked to purchase an attractive product.  Instead, we are told that they need money for their children.

Two or three villages, such as Nargana, have begun to abandon traditional ways.  The power of The Sayla is weakening, electricity is available 24 hours, and computers are scheduled for the library.  While most women still use traditional clothing, many do not, and one well known Kuna salesperson, Lisa, arrives in slacks and blouse, with a portfolio of t shirts purchased in Panama City, then supposedly modified by her with Kuna designs.

During our visit, anchorages always had at least two yachts, and one or two had over 20, especially for a holiday like Thanksgiving.  We do not know how that adds up to the number of boats visiting annually,  but let's assume 1,000 per year.  These boats already have generated significant detritus, similar on every beach and island to what is seen in lakes and reservoirs at home.  We have not visited a single beach or island without old shoes, liquor bottles, pampers and plastic containers or bags.  Imagine, then, what life will be like in twenty years, when the youth want more, begging grows, and the number of yachts leaving junk is 4,000, or 6,000.  

These industrious people will survive, but not in the ways of their past.  As in all periods of history, visitors will engender change, but change without responsibility, because we  leave after our visits.  In our view, given enough time, the magnificent Kuna will become like Seminoles of Florida., a non existent culture falsely represented by roadside merchants selling cheap crafts.  


Thursday, November 16

GPS Trip Log:  10,830 Nautical Miles

After a dull and rainy Tuesday, we tried to renew our relationship with Idelfonso by going to his home, anticipating he would guide us on a dinghy trip up the river.  However, he already had left for other work.  As we waited at their dock, the entire family, perhaps a dozen people, began to debate how they could help us.  The conclusion was that an 18 year old cousin would come with us.  She is shy, and lost her way, but we admired her courage to go with us.  (By appearances, two others in the family did not want to do it.)

From 11 to 3, we steered Pachamama through numerous shallow areas, only to arrive her and go aground less than a quarter mile from the anchorage.  The landing was soft, and full reverse power got us off.  Dumb.  The charts clearly show the shallow area, and a cruising guide specifically calls attention to it.  Within moments of anchoring, the cayuco visits began.

In Isla Maquina, Chichi wanted a ride in a cayuco and kept asking.  Finally, we got the truth.  They do not want us big gringos in cayucos because we have no sense of balance.  A caycuo is a carved out log.  Balance is difficult,  like balance required to keep upright during a log rolling competition.  The Kunas (and Mayas, and others) are born to these vehicles.  They experience them at age one week, and by four years old they can paddle one.  A family of six or seven all can enter a cayuco, and it will not turn over because of the magnificent sense of balance everyone enjoys.  Put one gringo in the cayuco, the whole thing goes over in a few seconds.


09-26.243N
078-50.970W

Anchored
Gaigar
Near Isla  Maquina (Mormake Tupu)
Carmaca Kuna Yala  (San Blas)
Panama

Monday, November 13

Idelfonso Restrepo and his brothers stopped by at Chichime.  During one of those magical encounters, we agreed to everything they said or proposed, including sale of two molas by Venacio Restrepo for a huge price.  We agreed that next day (which is today), Idelfonso would lead us to his home, Mormake Tupu, about 90 minutes from Chichime.  He showed at 8:45, and we were on our way, with him leading us through the small islands and reefs to his birthplace, an island of 300 families, a postage stamp you can cross in ten minutes.

We visited The Sayla, or chief, taking a can of soup, rice, sugar and crushed pickles.  Just as the guide books said, he was sitting in a hammock in El Congresso, the town meeting hall where Kunas meet every night to hash out local issues.  Idelfonso introduced us and interpreted.  The two spoke almost 15 minutes before the preordained conclusion:  $10 and written permission to visit both the town and a nearby river.  Then we walked through the town, stopped to meet many people and to take photos, purchased fresh hot bread, and went back to Pachamama for the 20 minute ride here, a superior anchorage.  

On board, Idelfonso noticed a T-shirt saying Mahina Tiare III, the Halberg Rassey 46 owned and operated by John and Amanda Neal who teach sailing around the world.  (John sailed with John and Amanda in The North Sea, 1999.)  Meanwhile, we found that Idelfonso learned to speak English by studying a dictionary, and that he is attempting to do the same with French.  He also showed us Nuchos, small wood statues that either are "alive" (carved in hard wood), or "dead" (carved in balsa for sale to visitors.) Every Kuna has a nucho to which he attributes the good and bad experiences of life.  

[While typing this, the three Restrepo brothers returned to our boat with Molas.  We purchased the Molas in Chichime, but ours were not signed, or embroidered with Venacio's name.  So, they brought them back to us, signed.  These are nice, generous people.]

Anyway, when Idelfonso saw a Mahina Tiare t shirt on board Pachamama, he said "I know that boat."  John and Amanda have visited here twice, most recently in June, and we carried their published log that has a picture of the Restrepo home. We loved the coincidence, and left the log behind so that they can enjoy it.  Tomorrow, we visit a river.




09-35.221N
078-52.881W

Anchored
Chichime
Comarca to Kuna Yala  (The San Blas Islands)
Republic of Panama

GPS  ODOMETER    10,807 nautical miles since September 2001


Saturday, November 11

6 a.m.

Personal reactions to a sailing experience are a result of weather, wave height, health of the crew and mood.  Occasionally, these combine to produce an ideal day, such as we had yesterday moving from Isla Grande to Chichime.  We felt good.  Not tired, but content.  The sea was calm, like glass, the wind light, and a following current added a full knot to our speed.  Anchoring appeared dicey on the charts, but the high 1 p.m. sun (allowing us to easily observe shoals) and the calm sea reduced our stress and made life easy.  The big challenge was to receive Kuna visitors, who attached their cayucos to Pachamama before we set the anchor.

The literature describes a nation of 55,000 people (more than 755,000 prior to The Spanish) who are peaceful, humble, smiling, accommodating and hard working.  The families who visited us seemed to fit the description.  Kunas live within the geographical boundaries of Panama, but govern themselves as an independent nation.  Their system of governance is a combination of town meetings and Solomonic pronouncements from the Sayla, or chief..  Encyclopedias, The Internet, cruising guides and Lonely Planet Guides are sources of extensive additional information.

We sit between two small islands or cays, each no more than a couple of football fields long and 100 feet wide.  We are surrounded by reefs that dampen waves to give us stability in the water.  Each island has two or three thatch huts.  We have seen no greater beauty, tranquility and colorful waters since The Exumas in The Bahamas.  

We will have more to say about Kuna life during the next two weeks.  Meanwhile, trips from Colon to Porto Belo, and from there to Isla Grande, were uneventful.  

Porto Belo is historic.  It is the successor to Nombre de Dios, the first port from which the Spanish shipped pilfered treasures.  Frequent attacks caused The Spanish to change locations to Porto Belo which had a more easily protected bay.  Ruins of forts still exist, as does a renovated counting house.  "The Black Christ" also is here.  This is a profoundly moving image that is removed from its church twice a year, first during Semana Santa, and second on October 21 when thousands come to visit and to pay respects.  As in Antigua, Guatemala, the image is born on a large, heavy platform, carried by 50 people, for three hours at night.  For each procession, a new gold embroidered cape is provided.  Capes used in previous years are displayed in a museum next to the church.

For the first time in several years, the floor beneath our diesel engine is free of fluids, thanks to Andy and Victor at The Panama Canal Yacht Club.  Still, new tasks always appear:  installation of a new hot water heater, repair and painting of the toe rail, waxing and bottom painting, are on the list.  Our largest concern at the moment is insufficient Lemon Fresh Joy.  This magnificent fluid cuts grease, cleans bodies and hair in salt water, helps remove yuk from the bilge, as well as helping to clean heads and walls.  Since this is our greatest concern, you can see that life now is good.  

9:30 a.m.

Visitors from yesterday came by shouting "Chichi. Chichi."  Up she went, and she bought more, while giving tea and canned meat.  In return, we got a coconut and a sea shell.  The father made a good point.  With the high wind today, he cannot go out to get food.