Essays

Cartagena de Indias
By John Guy

The finest, all purpose destination of the Caribbean Sea is Cartagena de Indias.

Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, cruising sailors find here satisfaction for any personal interest or practical need, from adequate health care to complete maintenance and repair, to a pyramid of history and touring opportunities unmatched anywhere else.

Cartagena was the primary Spanish port on The Caribbean, its original ambiance delightfully preserved in “The Old Town,” which is still surrounded by Las Murallas, thick walls to protect against invaders. Construction commenced after an attack by Sir Francis Drake in the late 16^th century. It was completed in 1796, only 25 years prior to final elimination of The Spanish. Inside the walls are churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions, gems of colonial architecture. At mid day, the place seems like Times Square. In the early mornings and evenings, it is quiet and unassuming, like a garden in Savannah, an ideal place to walk and to reflect.

Among “Old Town's” many sites is The Naval Museum where cruising sailors can imagine famous battles or gaze at replicas of well known ships such as The Cutty Sark and The Bounty.

The harbor is protected and safe. The primary anchorage accommodates 50 boats or more during high season. Near the anchorage, Club Nautico Marina welcomes dinghies, as well as boats wanting a permanent tie. The Club is home for Sunday dominoes, swap meets, special holiday events, the best Happy Hour around, a rich book exchange, and a hamburger for two. Its free printed guide to services is more complete than found elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Another potential home for cruisers is Club de Pesca which is inside walls of El Fuerte de San Sebastian del Pastelillo, an early defense post built in the 16^th century. Fuel is available, and the Club's lift is convenient for vessels up to at least 25 tons. (Yard services also are available at the Manzanillo Marina Club, Ferroalquimar, Todomar, and for larger boats, The Naval Yard.)

The Colombian Coast Guard participates in lectures about coastal travel and offers a monitoring service. Access is by voluntary submission of a float plan that is forwarded to all stations along the proposed route. During our stay of almost five months, The Colombian Coast Guard admirably helped one boat with an onboard health emergency.

December through March is the active social and cultural period. Early evidence is the most complete and compelling Christmas light displays we have seen, supported by municipal funds and by formal competition. The list of activities during the period, in approximate calendar order, are The National All Star Baseball Game, outdoor celebrations on both Christmas and New Years, appearances by traveling groups such as The Cuban Ballet, The Annual International Festival of Music, a weekend of bull fights, an international movie festival, seminars and symposiums such as one honoring the Spanish Language and another on behalf of author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and carnival in nearby Barranquilla. The Annual Club de Pesca Fishing Tournament includes three days of yacht racing open to anyone. During the tournament, the club offers first class meals, fashion shows, musical entertainment, and cooking lessons.

Colombia's diversity is available to the ambitious cruiser. In the south, Leticia sits on the Amazon River between Brazil and Peru. River trips to Manaus or to Iquitos are available, as are at least two jungle eco lodges. In the central highlands, Bogotá is a roaring capital city with an atmosphere like New York and a unique and effective surface transportation system. Medellin, (Bogotá too), provides all outdoor experiences anyone could want, such as hiking and back packing, para sailing, river rafting, fishing, and cycling, plus four theaters, two “tango” night clubs, and more than a dozen commercial cinemas.

Meanwhile, back in Cartagena, cruisers can relax by enjoying first-run movies or traversing the well-lighted and scenic harbor walk that comes alive at 5 a.m. with a formal aerobic exercise program complete with music. Cruisers can organize activities such as Salsa dance lessons, a van trip to a nearby volcanic mud bath, or share-the-expense trips into the interior. A 15 minute taxi ride takes you to the Convento de la Popa, so named to recognize that the hill on which it is located looks like the stern of a ship. The views from here stretch over the entire city.

Cruisers and publications such as “Lonely Planet” consider Colombia safe, with Cartagena one of its safest cities. Our opinion is that cruisers can feel as comfortable here as in Ft. Lauderdale or Indianapolis. The “Plan Colombia,” subsidized by Uncle Sam, has isolated para military activity to a few remote locations that are well known and easily avoided.

Most cruisers arrive in Cartagena from the ABC islands to the east. Others come from San Blas in Panama, or directly from the Colombian islands of San Andres and Providencia. A few hours off the coast of Colombia are the Rosario Islands, perfectly suited for a rest prior to arrival, staging out after departure, or for a single day excursion.

Clearing is handled by professional agents.

A large grocery, a bank and automatic tellers, and an internet café are two minutes walk from Club Nautico, ten minutes from Club de Pesca. Both clubs offer WiFi.